Side dish for 4 persons:

Make the vinaigrette first. Combine the saffron, vinegar, wine and honey in a small saucepan. Heat gently until the honey has dissolved, then add the spring onions, 1 crushed garlic clove, a pinch of red chilli flakes and the leaves of 1 sprig of thyme. Pour into a jar with a lid and leave to cool.

Combine the coriander and fennel seeds and the peppercorns in a small dry frying pan and cook over medium heat for 3–4 minutes, until lightly toasted and aromatic. Crush roughly in a mortar then add them to the saffron infusion, along with the olive oil and lemon juice. Shake vigorously then taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking.

In the same pan, dry-fry the hazelnuts for 4–5 minutes, or until the skins darken and they start to smell toasty. place into a tea towel and rub away the skins (if needed). Chop the nuts roughly and set aside.

Trim and clean the leeks well, making sure you wash away any lingering bits of soil. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and add the leeks, 1 peeled garlic clove and a few sprigs of thyme. Poach for 4–5 minutes (8–10 if they are larger), or until tender. Drain well then pat them dry with kitchen paper.

Transfer the leeks to a serving platter and, while they are still hot, spoon over enough saffron vinaigrette to moisten, but not drown them. Leave them to cool to room temperature.

Heat the butter in the same pan and, when it’s sizzling, add the breadcrumbs and chilli flakes and fry until they are golden brown and crunchy. Add the chopped hazelnuts and fry for another minute. Season with salt and pepper, to taste, then tip the hot crumbs over the leeks and serve straight away.